Outdoor air contains everything from auto exhaust to industrial emissions, and in many of our larger cities, smog and ozone advisories are commonly reported on the news. However, recent studies by the Environmental Protection Agency indicate that indoor air is 3-5 times as dirty as the air outside. Many people do not realize that the air inside their homes and offices contains harmful VOCs (volatile organic compounds), chemicals, allergens, bacteria, viruses and mold spores. These pollutants are responsible for the millions of allergy and asthma cases in America each year.

Cleaning the air is mandatory if you want to breathe better and reduce (or eliminate) allergy symptoms. The most important factor when cleaning the air indoors is to remove any allergens that may be present. This may involve replacing the carpet with hardwood flooring. Perhaps, your polyfoam-filled mattress needs to be replaced with a non-toxic, cotton or wool mattress. Household chemical-based cleaners should be replaced with brands that use natural ingredients that are not harmful to one’s health. A vacuum with a HEPA (High efficiency particulate air) filter is highly recommended as a means to clean the carpet, flooring and upholstery. The HEPA filter traps fine particulates (less than 0.3 microns) and prevents re-circulation back into the room environment.

A HEPA air purifier uses a HEPA filter to trap airborne allergens down to the size of 3 microns in diameter. This includes bacteria, viruses, dust, mold spores, pet dander, radon daughters, and other lung damaging particles. HEPA air purification is utilized in environments where the removal of submicron particulate matter from the indoor air is mandatory, including operating rooms, pharmaceutical labs, and computer chip manufacturing facilities. HEPA air purifiers are recommended by the CDC, Homeland Security, EPA and several other reputable organizations.

An air purifier with activated carbon is a necessity if your environment contains gaseous odors, chemical vapors or tobacco smoke. Activated carbon contains small microscopic pores within the carbon to adsorb (trap) harmful gases or odors. Potassium iodide or zeolite can also be added to the carbon to remove a wider range of chemicals (ammonia, formaldehyde, benzene).

It is important to purchase an air purifier that does not produce ozone and is certified by the IAACM (International Association of Air Cleaning Manufacturers). Many cheap ionizers (think television commercials) produce toxic ozone as a by-product. Consumers unknowingly purchase these machines without realizing they’re polluting the air inside of their home, thus endangering their health.

For further information regarding HEPA air purifiers, please visit http://www.cleanairplus.com.

Adding a sauna room to your home can help your health and personal finances.

Indeed, many health benefits have been attributed to regular sauna bathing, including improved blood circulation, improved lung function, and strengthened immunity to illness. A study by the British Medical Association found that people who take sauna baths two or three times a week reduce their incidence of colds and flu by more than 65 percent. Imagine the impact that could have on your own life: fewer visits to the doctor and pharmacy, and fewer days away from work spent feeling worried, run down, and just plain miserable.

Even if a health insurance plan covers your medical expenses, a sauna room in your home can still save and even earn you a considerable amount of money. If you already enjoy the benefits of sauna bathing at a local health club, gym or spa, calculate what you would save in usage fees and gas expenses if you stayed at home to sauna.

Also worthy of consideration is the extra money a sauna room could provide you if and when you decide to sell your home. Often perceived as luxury items by real estate agents, special features such as indoor saunas typically help to increase the resale values of homes. Yes, there will always be an initial investment attached to the addition of a sauna room, but the potential payoffs will more than make up for it.

Remember that an indoor sauna room doesn’t have to be the same size as your living room or family room. Many people choose to transform just a portion of their bedroom, bathroom or basement into a sauna room. After all, the smaller your sauna room is, the more efficiently you will be able to heat it.

For practical purposes, however, you don’t want your indoor sauna room to be too small. You’ll need to have enough space in your sauna room to be able to move around freely, lie down on the sauna benches, and share your sauna comfortably with family and friends. Ultimately, the decisions on size and other aspects of design are yours to make, as your indoor sauna room can be fully customized to reflect your unique personality and preferences.

And with the popular option of do-it-yourself sauna kits, you can be as involved in the sauna building process as you choose to be. Once you decide on the size and features of your sauna room, finding and assembling a DIY sauna kit should be relatively easy. Don’t be intimidated if you don’t possess any previous sauna building experience; the do-it-yourself sauna kits contain the pre-cut materials and detailed instructions needed to assist even the most apprehensive first-timer.

Whatever steps you take to add a sauna room to your home, do not ignore the importance of home sauna accessories. Sauna accessories like cedar headrests and backrests, loofah sponges and sauna fragrances can constitute the difference between a sauna bath experience that true sauna enthusiasts would judge as being mediocre and one that is superbly relaxing, refreshing and remarkable.

For its proven positive impact on human health and happiness, an indoor sauna room should be regarded as a necessity for anyone who owns a home.

Pertti Olavi Jalasjaa is the Finnish-born author of “The Art of Sauna Building,” an acclaimed reference book on sauna construction. He is also the general manager of Great Saunas, which has been manufacturing and selling high-quality saunas and sauna kits to sauna enthusiasts around the world since 1974. Visit Great Saunas online at http://www.greatsaunas.com.

Nothing brings back the luster, shine, and the natural beauty of wood flooring that like refinishing does, especially if the floor has deep scratches and dings. However, it is a big job, so deciding whether or not you want to be a real do-it-yourselfer and get at it yourself, or whether you want to hire a professional is important.

Do you have the time?

First off, the job will take several days, you will not only be working for many hours on filling cracks, sanding, buffing, and staining your floor, but you will also have to allow about 24 hours for each coat of finish to dry (this varies depending on the type of finish you opt for). So three days is a good estimate of the amount of time the job will take.

Equipment

Refinishing involves two major pieces of equipment – a drum sander and a buffer. These large machines can be rented at most home stores, and are large enough that you will most likely need a truck to haul them home. Dealing with these alone is often enough to make some people opt for hiring a professional. There is also a small amount of other tools you will need including an orbital/palm sander.

The Work

Okay, so if you have decided that you have a few days to spend on your floors and that you can haul the equipment home, the last major detail you’ll want to consider is the work involved: sanding, buffing, cleaning, and finishing along with a few other smaller tasks.

Sanding and buffing floors is not an incredibly difficult job. However, the machines may take a little getting used to, especially the buffer. At times the buffer may seem like it has a mind of its own and you may have to work with it a bit, but this is typically not backbreaking work. However, the job of refinishing gets more difficult as you go along.

After you have sanded and buffed the floor, you will need to do a very thorough job of cleaning up. You will need to clean up the dust from the floor, walls, and ceiling. Once cleaning has been done (along with some other small tasks which may have needed to be done before sanding – things like sinking nails and filling cracks), it is time to finish the floors.

Applying stain to wood floors requires a lot of elbow grease, and you will be on your knees a lot. You will need to carefully cover the entire floor, section by section, being carefully to feather out any brush marks. Also, you will have to do this not just once, but twice – so kneepads are a must! Once the second coat is done, you will have finally finished this job!

As you can see, there is a lot involved with refinishing your own floors, but if you do decide that you can handle it, perhaps you’ll get some satisfaction of a job well done on your new, beautifully rich wood floor.

Jennifer Hall is a writer and editor for A1 Wood Flooring, visit us for more DIY tips on wood flooring, a guide to refinishing hardwood floors, and information on hardwood flooring.

Ceramic tile material is rigid and relatively brittle, so a sturdy base is the most critical part of installing this type of tile. Unless you want to see cracked tiles, loose tiles, or loose grout, you need to select the proper underlayment. Underlayment being what the construction trade calls the layer that goes between your wood subfloor and your tiles.

You have several alternate ways to accomplish the strong underlayment required for ceramic tile installation.

Plywood- just a single layer of plywood isn’t rigid enough to stop floor deflection. It needs to be covered over with an additional layer of exterior-grade plywood to achieve a total thickness of at least 1 1/8 inch. You can either (A)- Cover the plywood with a cement backer board (more on these below) or (B) Cover the existing plywood with a second layer of exterior grade plywood. Under either of these, a thin-set mortar is applied to eliminate air gaps. Additionally, in bathrooms, it’s recommended to lay a “shower pan” over your wood subfloor. This refers to thin rubberized materials that protect the tile from floor expansion and contraction due to moisture, temperature and humidity.

Cement Backer Board – These are prefabricated, lightweight concrete sheets used to cover wood subfloors. It has a dense Portland concrete core and fiberglass surfaces both sides and is able to withstand prolonged exposure to moisture. Brand names include DUROCK, UTILICRETE, WONDERBOARD and GLASCRETE. Joints of the backer board sheets should be staggered such that they don’t fall directly over the wood subfloor joints.

Mortar Bed- Mud beds, or mortar beds, are used by professional tile contractors mostly. They’re composed of a layer of thick roofing felt, then wire mesh, followed by a layer of mortar. The reason it is used mostly by the specialists is that it takes a high level of skill and practice to ensure the mortar bed produces a sufficiently level surface. The other reason is that it is the best foundation possible for a ceramic tile floor. Okay, but why? Because the mortar bed has a built-in reinforcement against floor deflections in the form of the wire mesh. Translation- less cracked tiles and loose grout, and longer-life flooring.

Concrete Slab-
You can lay your ceramic tile directly on concrete slab, but all cracks and holes need to be refurbished prior before the installation of a tile when it’s directly bonded to the concrete. Some concrete slab has been coated with curing compound to help the slab set without cracks. This compound should be removed before tile installation to ensure a long-lasting mortar bond, since the compound helps the concrete retain moisture and in some cases affects adhesiveness. It is also important that the slab be as level as possible, especially with the larger tile sizes in use today. Cleaning the concrete completely of debris and dust will also contribute to a higher quality installation. In short, preparation of the surface is key.

One other possibility is laying the tile over existing flooring. There are a few things to consider. Is your existing floor solid, flat and in good shape? Is it stuck well enough to the subfloor under it to provide support? Good. Is the existing floor linoleum or vinyl? Not so good. You need to strip it out or put a good subflooring on top of it. (And watch out for older vinyl flooring, which may contain asbestos fibers. You don’t want to strip this stuff out yourself. Instead, either cover it up with some plywood subfloor or have a contractor remove it. If you aren’t sure if your flooring has asbestos, call in a trained asbestos inspector.) If you have ceramic tile on the floor you can lay newer tile on top of it as long as it’s surface is level and not too smooth. You might need to sand the surface to let your bonding have a better chance.

In conclusion, a little planning and thought will go a long way toward making your tile installation project a long-lasting addition to your home, so take the time before you go in with “both guns blazing”.

If you are going to be installing Pergo flooring yourself, the following are some brief tips from a do-it-yourself home owner just like you!

Installing Pergo flooring in your home can be a great, low cost, home improvement decision. It is fairly durable, extremely easy to clean, and installing Pergo flooring is easy. The look is welcoming, providing any area in your home with a warm look and feel of wood. You have a wide array of colors and styles to choose from, so you will certainly find something to suit your home’s needs.

To begin, you will need specific tools and supplies begin installing Pergo flooring in your home. There are two types of flooring offered, glue and glueless. No matter what type of flooring you choose to install, you will need a plastic vapor barrier, a saw, and padding. If you choose the glue model, you will need other supplies, such as tightening straps and tapping block.

Before you begin installing Pergo flooring, there are numerous home improvement classes offered at a regular basis for no charge at home improvement stores. Its highly recommended that you take a class to familiarize yourself with the common problems and issues you will encounter. You will be able to learn firsthand how to install the floor, and you will be able to ask an installation expert any questions you may have regarding installing Pergo flooring. Plus, all the supplies you will need when installing Pergo flooring are there in the class.

You can plan on installing Pergo flooring over cement, tile, vinyl, or in place of carpet. The planks should be installed over special, specific padding to help with noise as well as a vapor barrier (especially if you install over concrete) to keep moisture out. These are all things you need to discuss with your home improvement supplier.

Measure the rooms and get your square footage before you go to a class or to pick out the material. You will be able to bring home samples to help you decide on the color of your new floors if needed. At this time, plan the direction that the wood planks should lay. When installing Pergo flooring in a narrow or long room, lay it down lengthwise; or, if you are installing the flooring in a room with a large window, lay it feeding towards the window.

One of the first steps you take after you have brought home the materials is to let the boxes sit open in the room you plan on installing Pergo flooring in for at least 48 hours. If you live in or will be installing Pergo flooring in an area of extremely high or low humidity, you should let the open box sit for up to 96 hours exposing the wood materials to the room’s environment. Allowing the box to sit allows the material to get acclimated, and will decrease the chances for swelling and/or shrinking once you complete the job.

When you install Pergo flooring, you are creating a floating floor. The planks should not be glued or secured to the subfloor in anyway to allow for movement with humidity and temperature. (The expansion distance is 1/4 inch in normal climates). This is important to note in areas you are installing like at corners, angles and openings such as doorways.

Two essential installation supplies when using a glue system are the tapping block and the tightening straps. These are used to make sure the pieces of flooring are connected tightly and smoothly with less gapping. Before adding glue, lay the first three rows down to see what the floor will look like and if the pieces will fit. If you have a board close (less than 2”) to the wall (or end of spatial area), rearrange the first pieces to make them all fit.

Installing laminate floor in your home is a big task, but a very rewarding one. Upkeep of the surface is easy and there are specific details and instructions on maintenance and damage repair to these types of floors once you have them installed. For more reading, check out the information below.

Every now and then a product comes along that doesn’t just deliver on its promise, it over delivers. This is true of microfiber cleaning cloths, which are the best thing since soap and water. Really. Years ago, I kept hearing murmurs about microfiber coming out of Sweden and thought I’d give it a try because if anything needs to be made easier, it’s housecleaning. Now that I’ve changed to microfiber to clean my house, I won’t be going back. Once you try them, you’ll understand why, too.

Microfiber is a workhorse

One of the drawbacks of housecleaning is that it is just so darn hard to do — and it takes so many cleaners. But microfiber has changed all that. These cloths actually attract dirt and trap it in the fibers. At only 1/16th the size of a human hair, the fibers don’t just trap dirt, they trap bacteria, too.

The cloths are made of a polyester and polymide blend that retains a static charge. This makes them actually attract dust, dirt, and pet hair. The cloths are also so efficient at trapping dirt that they don’t demand gallons of cleaners, so you can even clean with water alone – important if anyone in your home is chemically-sensitive, has breathing problems, or has asthma.

According to one study, microfiber cloths pick up 96% of bacteria using only water. With houses becoming more and more air tight, cleaning with water makes sense because if you’re able to clean with fewer chemicals, then those chemicals won’t be trapped in the house with you. A university in Canada performed a study that tested the cloths’ cleaning ability in restrooms and found that microfiber with water cleaned as well as a rag with disinfectant.

Special surfaces need microfiber

Microfiber cloths also beautifully polish chrome, fixtures, windows, wood floors, and granite. That’s right, granite; beautiful to look at and awful to maintain. If anyone had told me how hard keeping that shiny surface would be, I doubt I would have installed it in my own house. But then I use microfiber and it helps me maintain my love affair with my granite.

I’ll never forget the look on my builder’s face when he asked me if I thought granite was a chore to maintain. I then proceeded to show a side by side comparison of the cleaning ability of a sponge and a microfiber cloth. I enjoyed his amazement at the incredible cleaning ability, and I think I sold another set of towels that day.

The same is true for those glass cooktops that require the special “cooktop cleaner.” Fortunately, microfiber is there. With a damp cloth, you can make your ceran or glass cooktop sparkle without all the special cleaner and paper towels every single time you want to clean it. It does a great job on stainless, too.

Wood floors and windows are another cleaning challenge. With wood, it’s not a good idea to damp mop because over time water damages wood, but yet wood floors need an occasional mopping. Lightly sprayed with water, special microfiber mops pick up the tiniest bits of dirt and wipe smears and stains away without using excessive amounts of water.

And who wants to clean windows? I do because I hate looking out dirty windows and the microfiber makes cleaning them so easy. For windows, I use two microfiber cloths. One is wet with a weak solution of water and window cleaner and the other dry. I wipe the windows first with the wet one to get the dirt off and then wipe to a perfect shine with the dry one. Unlike with paper towels where you need to wipe until your arm wants to fall off to make your windows shine, it only takes seconds to clean windows with microfiber.

Treat your microfiber right

When you buy microfiber towels, be sure to wash them in hot water first to plump up the fibers. Add a little dish soap to a dishpan and wash the cloths in with the hottest water possible. Rinse, wring them out, and they’re ready for use. After use, wash the same way or throw them in the washer. Make sure you don’t add fabric softener or put them in the dryer. You can get literally hundreds of washes from one cloth.

Where to buy microfiber

Buy microfiber cloths in the automotive sections at your supercenter for about $5 for five or six. Consider buying three sets, one for general cleaning, one for windows and glass, and a third for bathrooms. Find microfiber mops online at places such as eriecotton.com. Their microfiber mops are reasonable (about $15!! for a mop and pad — a special price just for readers of this page!).

Give microfiber towels a try. You’ll be amazed, too. It’s my personal promise.

When we decide to spruce up our house, one of the first things that come to mind is a curtain. There are many types of curtains on the market. Lots of fabrics, colors, designs and styles to chose from. But sometimes, regardless of the vast variety available, we simply can’t find what we’re looking for, and often times when we do, we can’t afford it.
The truth is, you don’t need anyone to do it for you; you are as capable as it takes, to do it yourself! Let’s see how we can become designers of our own space using basic tailoring techniques.

Let’s start by the most prominent, the material. The fabric. Choose a fabric that you like. Avoid quilted fabrics as they can stretch or shrink over time. Fibers like cotton and linen and especially those with polyester and micro fibers, hold up better than others. Also avoid silk or silk blends, because they tend to rot and fade very quickly. Make sure you buy enough fabric; you don’t want your curtains to look poor. Double height of the window and three times width, should be fine.
In this article, we will examine the three simplest sewing and hanging techniques for curtains.

For curtains with rings, you need to stitch an approximately 3-inch hem at the edge of the curtain panels that are going to be hung. Now, sew each ring to each curtain panel leaving small distances between the rings so that the curtain is pulled easily. You can also use clip-on rings that don’t need to be stitched and are easier to apply.

For tied tab curtains you will need to create the hangers. Simply stitch horizontal buttonholes at the top of the curtain panel. Now you can make the hangers using the same fabric as the curtains, or another but suitable fabric for a little diversity. Make threads and place through the buttonholes.

No Sew Curtains are also a smart and easy way to make curtains and decorate a window. In this case the fabric should be 3 inches more than double the height of the window and 2 inches more than the width of the window. Pull the fabric through the rod and fold evenly. Now stitch the two ends of the fabric at the bottom and at the sides together. When the curtain is ready, place a single fabric band in the center of the curtain or use two purchased tiebacks evenly spaced along the width of your window. Then adjust folds of fabric panel as desired.

Gather your supplies, fabric, scissors, screws, rings or ribbon, and use your imagination. In less than an hour you will manage to decorate that empty window effectively and inexpensively. But the most important thing is that you will have your own personal work to show off in your house.

Whether it’s a New Year’s Resolution or spring cleaning, no cleaning spree would be complete without cleaning the closets. This time, don’t just rearrange the junk—find a permanent solution. Closet organizers provide a way to organize your possessions. When every item has a “home,” it is much easier to keep the closet clean.

You have a few choices when it is time to buy closet organizers. First, determine your budget and go from there.

Under $100: If you are working on a small budget, it would probably be best to buy closet organizers at the local home improvement store or department store. These closet organizer kits contain all shelving, components, and hardware needed for your closet. You will need to measure your closet to determine the right sized kit. Some assembly is generally required, but it is usually simple. In addition to the basic closet, you can buy any accessories you need: shoe racks or cubbies, shelves, drawers, tie racks, etc.

Low $100s – $1000s: If you are working on a mid-level budget, you might want to consider closet organizer systems. These modular units are pre-assembled and simply need to be installed. Some can be placed on the closet floor; some need to be wall-mounted. You also have many choices of accessories with this option.

Unlimited: If price is no object for you, custom closet organizers are also available. These can be ordered online, using a “design wizard,” or a local company can send a consultant to your home. While this option is the most expensive, it also offers the greatest level of creativity.

There are many brands available. One of the best known, Rubbermaid, offers a unique “custom-closet-in-a-box” system. This is a combination closet organizer kit/custom closet organizer. This Configurations kit contains shelving, hand rails, brackets, hanging rods, and all necessary hardware. There is no cutting involved as all rods and shelves are adjustable. The hanging rods range from 2 ft. to 8 ft., depending on how they are assembled. Accessories and extensions are also available to further customize the closet. Customers report that this product is easy to install. It can even be easily reconfigured if you change your mind. Customers were also impressed that there is no cutting involved. Configurations by Rubbermaid are available at some Wal-Mart and Home Depot stores and at the Rubbermaid website.

Another popular brand for closet organizers is Stanley. Though these closet organizers are a bit hard to locate, they are very popular with consumers. Many customers have said the Stanley organizers are better quality than what is available at local home improvement stores.

Within each type and brand of closet organizers, you will have choices in color, material, and style. You can design your closet to match your home, your taste, and your lifestyle. With a little bit of time and money, your closets can be permanently organized.

Making a home look beautiful doesn’t have to end in tragedy. Around the world, people are enjoying the benefits of DIY projects. With increasingly low costs and even easier installation processes, DIY is indeed ruling the airwaves as well as comfy homes.

Keeping the house bright

There are four main ways to make a house look brighter. First, you can repaint your house. Second, you may install bright new colors with good quality wallpaper. Third, you can open up sources of natural light such as windows and keep them open. And third, and perhaps the approach that works for all homes is to install new lighting.

Jenny Richards, a DIY enthusiast for over five years shares her secrets: “Make sure wallpaper patterns match or it will bug you for years. Always use good quality paint, like a one-coat product – two coats are better than four! I’ve got four children so I always go for a wipe-able paint such as stain emulsion, and kitchen and bathroom paint is marvelous for rooms that get steamed up.” She continues with: “Line roller trays in clingfilm so you don’t have to spend ages washing it afterwards. Clingfilm laid on to a paint tray also stops it getting a skin if you need to come back and finish a job the following day. Wrap the roller separately.”

Uneven surfaces

Whether you’re armed with an adhesive or a paintbrush, uneven surfaces is your main enemy. Marcia Morgan, 35, is an interior designer who has developed her skills over the years, and this is what she has to say about uneven surfaces and the obstacle these pose to a DIY project: “Fill holes and cracks to get as smooth a surface as possible. Any imperfections will show up and spoil the finished result. When painting, start with the ceiling so splashes can be covered when you get to the walls and paint an inch or so down the wall. Do the careful cutting in when wall color goes on.” She continues with: “Paint all the internal corners as you go, then tackle the cutting in and the skirting before filling in the middle of the wall. If you’re redecorating a small room like a bathroom or galley kitchen, stick to lighter colors on walls and floors. It will open up the space and create a calmer feel.”

Wall to floor relationship

As light hits the surface of the walls, much of it rebounds unto the floor. The process of highlighting goes both ways- the wall is emphasized by the floor and the floor is highlighted by the walls. That’s why you have to give a bit of effort to make sure that if the walls are daintily painted, the floors are admirable as well. The use of carpeting can accent certain parts of the room and can bring a geometrical balance to a large, irregularly shaped room. Lines do the trick- the eyes follow lines, any kind of line. Carpeting emphasizes one section of the room. Some green is always good- potted plants (even cactuses) can be a great addition to any room. Just make sure that the plants are placed near the window, away from spaces of constant activity.